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Vermont Cheese Artisans Succeed with Old World Skill

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Thistle Hill's John & Janine Putnam (Images courtesy of Thistle Hill Farm)

Thistle Hill Farm in Pomfret, Vermont has been a certified organic farm for over 15 years, having started out as a part-time endeavor of the family of John and Janine Putnam. They steadily made improvements and early on they decided to concentrate on dairy farming. Despite their dedication, the dairy farm was not enough to sustain them and John continued working as a lawyer to support the family.

In 1999, the Putnams went to Switzerland, where they visited almost every major cheesemaking region in the Swiss, French and Italian Alps. They’re quest was to find a cheese they loved that was produced in conditions matching as closely as possible the climate of Pomfret in the hills of Vermont. The journey led the family of six to Beaufort, France. There they were told of a Frenchman in the mountains above Moutiers who would tell them all they needed to know.

John & Janine Find Their Man

They found him at home on a Sunday afternoon. Having milked his cows, made some cheese, tended chores, and cleaned the kitchen, he had an hour for himself before evening chores and milking. So he seemed less than overjoyed to see two lost souls on his doorstep at a time when a nap seemed like a good idea. He let John and Janine struggle in French for a while before inviting them in for coffee in perfect English.

The Frenchman makes Beaufort "alpage" from the milk of 100 Tarine cows, twice a day, everyday, all summer long. He is famous for his cheese, and for falling asleep at dinner. He said "to make Beaufort is too meticulous for you.” That challenge was enough to hook the Putnams and seeing that they intended to persevere, he found them an apprentice and both have helped the family ever since.

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Thistle Hill’s Tarentaise is the happy result of the Putnam’s quest. It now ranks among the world’s most superb artisanal cheeses, garnering prestigious First Place awards from the American Cheese Society in both 2004 and 2006!

The wise but prudent Frenchman has even gone so far as to say, "maybe our job is OK."

To learn more about the Putnam's aged Alpine, raw milk cheese go to: Organic Tarentaise Raw Milk Cheese


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