Various Squash (photo by Emily Roesly, courtesy of morguefile.com)

A visit to a local farm stand or farmers market may have brought you face to face with some curious looking squash this season. The number of varieties now available has increased dramatically in recent years and it takes some expertise just to identify those intriguing winter vegetables.

Fortunately, Janet Fletcher authored a fine article for the San Francisco Chronicle last season that sheds some light on selecting the best squash for cooking. It seems “where and how” a squash is grown may be more important than what type of squash it is.

In a climate like the Bay Area’s some farmers will rush their crop so as to have them on display for Halloween, but that can lead to a disappointing taste. “Winter squashes picked too early won't have the sugar content or flavor depth of those allowed to mature fully on the vine.”

The article says Bill Fujimoto, proprietor of Berkeley's Monterey Market “raves about the French pumpkins and winter squashes from Hunter Orchards in Siskiyou County, near the Oregon border.” Ms. Fletcher quotes him as saying, "They have seriously good squashes up there. They'll be sticky on the outside, oozing juice from different spots."

Ms. Fletcher’s general advice on selecting squash:

Rely on the reputation of your produce merchant and the few clues that an uncut winter squash has to offer. The rind should be largely unblemished, with no soft spots. Most important, the squash should feel heavy for its size.

That heaviness stems from the increased sugar content that a truly ripe squash has produced. The Chronicle piece goes on to say:

Most of these hard-shelled winter squashes benefit from a few weeks of post-harvest curing, during which they dry out a bit and some starch converts to sugar. If stored in a cool, dry place, like a basement, they will keep for months. In the old days, a stash of winter squash in the barn or root cellar saw many farm families through the winter.

If you’d like to read the San Francisco Chronicle article cited above go to: Posh squash - how to make the most out of the winter's harbingers

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