Recipe from Joan Nathan's new book "The New American Cooking" (Knopf; $35)

Nathan was introduced to this omelet for breakfast in the foothills of the Ozarks, where she went thinking maybe nothing had changed in the last 30 years. Marion Spear, an herbalist in Fox, Ark., proved her wrong, picking fresh greens from her garden to prepare the omelet based on her latest inspiration, Japanese cooking.. The omelet tastes best with absolutely fresh herbs and vegetables steamed in a thin layer of egg in a minimal amount of oil, Nathan says. You can substitute spinach, dill, basil or parsley for the herbs and bitter greens and tomatoes for the mushrooms. Serve the omelet alone for brunch, or with fresh salsa and bread for lunch.

5 large eggs
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 ounces grated Cheddar cheese
1 handful (about 1/2 cup OR 1 1/2 ounces) chopped mustard greens
1 handful (about 1/2 cup OR 1 1/2 ounces) chopped arugula
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
3 green onions, minced
3 shiitake mushrooms, diced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Break eggs into a medium bowl and mix well.

Heat butter in a 10-inch nonstick frying pan (see Note) and swirl it around to coat bottom. Carefully pour eggs into pan and turn heat to medium-high. Sprinkle cheese on one half of omelet 2 inches from edge.

When eggs are cooked on bottom and around edge but still a bit liquid in middle, arrange mustard greens, arugula, cilantro, green onions and shiitake mushrooms on top of cheese. Gently fold one half of egg mass on top of other half. Remove from heat and let steam 3 to 5 minutes, until greens are wilted. Then return to heat 1 to 2 minutes to make sure omelet is warmed through. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Makes 2 to 3 servings